On a Winner at Winton

Tried to dredge up my highschool geography facts to identify the vegetation changes on the drive between Blackall, Longreach, Ilfracombe and Winton, and scrubby open sclerophyll was all I could vaguely recall….. but the open flat land was a smorgasbord of food for the relentless crows diving upon the huge numbers of roadkill. I don’t think they cared what the vegetation was called. The flocks of emus were a pleasant distraction as were the herds of cattle and large gatherings of goats along the way.

Only a five hour stint, and a few roadside rest stops with unreadable plaques neglected except as resting spots for birds, and we were pulling into the winner of the national Best Tiny Town title – Winton….and looking for a game of beach volleyball.

The Australian Outback Writers Festival was humming along, and I popped in to the architecturally outstanding, and locally contentious, Matilda Cultural Centre to register for my Friday presentation. Sarah Todman was at a display in the foyer happy to chat about her novel New Year’s Eve. A few miscommunication issues meant Sarah was heading off and not able to present her session….but I managed to grab a copy ready for the drive back home. Yes, there is something very tactile about having an actual book in your hand…..but also something very satisfying about the convenience of countless books stored online. Horses for courses!

Then it was off to the Festival dinner at the delightful cafe The Lost Poet. Who would have thought such an atmospheric bookstore-come-cafe would be in downtown Winton? Great table of authors Dr Judy Gregory, Sandra Hogan, and the delightful ” Baby Love” author Robyn Barker (below) and festival stalwart Bente Close and Mayor Kathy provided a very entertaining evening – food, new friends and the festival formalities of the short story competition winners all reflecting the warmth and efforts of the organising committee.

Winton has many historical markers in time. Its wide streets are great for allowing slower walkers plenty of time to cross and head for the amusing Newsagent that is a cafe and the regular newsagent sales two doors down. Whatever the shops are selling there is an atmosphere of resilience and hopeful prosperity. This community-minded town is not going the way of the dinosaurs for which it has become famous. The North Gregory Hotel probably stands out in the fame game.

History abounds here. Without needing to venture to the Age of Dinosaurs which we remember fondly from our 2018 trip with grand daughter Estella, it was easy to spend a solid couple of days really unpacking Winton’s past.

Evolutionary history is a bit difficult to comprehend in terms of time, but after the inland sea and the meteoric destruction of the mega fauna and flora, the face of Australia changed markedly. It wasn’t until millions of years later that human ancestors travelled south from Asia to explore and adapt to conditions in this area, but in this last one hundred thousand years – a mere speck of time – the Koa tribal language groups became more settled around this region. How appreciative were we to find helpful memorabilia and recorded ‘snapshots in time’ of early interactions between these culturally sophisticated tribes and the British colonial explorers and how the social landscape changed again because of this.

Winton has preserved its history well. Despite the fire which took some of the records, the town has rallied to rebuild. The Matilda Centre now houses tecnological advances which hopefully will avoid future losses of any records, and the community groups who supported the program of this ninth Australian Outback Writers Festival seem determined to build generational awareness far into the future, if strong student participation in the program is any indicator.

Winter provides relief from the heat and flies, and the constant stream of large vehicles hauling their temporary homes behind them roll into the various caravan parks to swell the population and the economy over the cooler months. As humble sedan drivers we added to the motel accommodation. What luck that we chose the Outback Motel by chance. Its fundraising for the vital services of the Flying Doctor come from donations to the Outback Surf Club for photographing the brolgas who feed on the footpath lawn of the motel.

Our very small contribution to the local economy was through food purchases…no surprise there. The local Spa was very well stocked; the gluten free frittata from the Newsagent/cafe The Coffee Cube was delicious; the nacho lunch at the Gregory Hotel was enormous and yummy; the lamb shank dinner at Tattersall’s was delicious and our time, when not eating, was spent looking at the museums and visitor attractions which the community and the Council and various volunteer bodies really go to great lengths to promote the Opal mining, the Dinosaur mega-finds, the connection to QANTAS, and the natural landscapes through the Writers Festival, the Outback Film Festival, the Winton Festival.

Waltzing Matilda and Banjo Patterson hold prominent positions among the visitor attractions for good reason. The Hotel Gregory holds the pianola upon which the original version of Waltzing Matilda was played, and copies of the songsheet are fascinating. Daphne Mayo, renowned sculpture, etched the story of this iconic poem set to music on to the dining room doors, and many Winton identities and visitors have graced its interior. The Theatre Royal with its wonderful open air theatre is a gem. Apart from the one in Broome, this is the only other with its canvas seats under the stars. Definitely an experience to savour (with your blanket).

Contemporary street sculptures and historical markers create a terrific atmosphere and entice people in to the shops. The quality of the window displays in the Opal shops and the Corfield and Fitzmaurice General Store is first class and the quirky use of rubbish bins hidden inside dinosaur feet adds that touch of humour to any street stroll. The dominant contemporary architect however resides in the Matilda Centre building. Its design has divided opinion, but the complex is a web of both the old and the new. Exploring the history and many museum pieces, marvelling at the creative art in the gallery, shopping for souvenirs or relaxing in the theatrette or sipping coffee in the cafe, the friendly staff are there ensure an holistic experience.

Exploring beyond the main street brought us to a few of the attractions we had seen on earlier trips, but also a few others that brought a smile to our faces as well. We saluted the wit of the house owners who had obviously become tired of the caravanners mistaking their entrance for the caravan park.

Humour is vital. The Crack Up Corner and the weekly comedy shows are light relief for locals and visitors alike. Those looking for quirky….this has your name on it. You can even stay in this airbnb…if you are game.

Communities lead everyday lives beyond the special events for tourists, and I was pleased to see the Community Garden helping connect and inspire gardening and healthy food production.

Arno’s Wall and the Arno’s Park legacy were perhaps a little disappointing and felt neglected, but worth a look to see now-superceded household items and machinery parts have been captured within the man-made wall time capsule. There was also a sense of tlc needed at the Musical Fence.

Winton has something for everyone. Young people really enjoy the swimming pool complex, the local librarian is a gem, and the schools are providing opportunities for ensuring pathways to local employment.

It has been a full and friendly few days. My session in the Writers Festival program was fun and I made many new connections. Who knows, we may return again.

Winton is a winner! Thanks for the memories.